Red Heart’s Sashay Fringe yarn is a very interesting and unique product, so I wanted to talk about my specific experiences making the Positive Pink Ruffles scarf pattern. The ruffle yarn, without the fur, was very popular in the not-too-distant past and as a result there are thousands of patterns you can make. The difference is you get a bit of extra flair when knitting them with Sashay Fringe. Not only this, see the benefits of knitting with Sashay Fringe yarn.
The Positive Pink Ruffles scarf pattern made with the Red Heart Boutique Sashay Fringe yarn.
I absolutely love this yarn for scarves because it's so easy, but it looks much more difficult than it actually is. This is perfect for someone who is just starting out and looking for a fun project, but also for tempting your friends into knitting! The yarn counts as a bulky, but you’re just knitting in the mesh, as seen on the how-to video.
Red Heart Sashay Scarf Cast On
First thing is to cast on; this can be really tricky if you're not sure what you’re doing with this yarn.
The mesh already has holes in it so you aren’t doing a long-tail cast on or anything. You’re using the holes in that mesh webbing to cast on. Sashay Fringe doesn't have the little rail road track in the top, so I would suggest starting at the holes nearer to the center. This way you won't see much of the mesh itself as you're knitting and the stitches you have on your needle are a little more defined. There aren’t that many stitches either, the pattern from the Red Heart website calls for 6 stitches. Trust me, this is the most difficult part of the whole thing! Once your cast on is done, it’s time to get knitting.
Using the holes in the mesh webbing to cast on the Sashay Fringe
The scarf knits up really fast, but in the first few rows you may find yourself thinking it's incredibly ugly. This is normal, it’s like knitting lace; it doesn’t look good until you are closer to the end. With lace that means blocking, with Sashay Fringe, it means a bit closer to the end.
One difference between ruffle yarns and Sashay Fringe that I really enjoyed, is the lack of maintenance while you're knitting it. With the regular ruffle yarn you have to smooth it out as you're knitting it to get a real ‘ruffled’ effect. The fur edge is what you're looking to accentuate with this yarn and there's no need to smooth it out. The weight of the fur itself makes sure the yarn isn't bunched up within the knitted folds of the scarf. Closer to the end of the ball the mesh is folded into the fur, but that is a simple matter of unfolding as you go along. If you place your thumb in the folded groove, as you move along the strand it will open up automatically.
Running your thumb along the inside as you knit makes it open right up.
The Rows of Ruffles pillow is something that I would dearly love to try; I relish in the thought it will turn out so soft. This pattern is linked to a crochet pattern and my crochet skills leave something to be desired, so I would knit the whole thing.
To convert this pillow pattern to a knitting pattern find your knitting gauge using Sashay Fringe, lift up the ruffles to the stitches underneath. My gauge was 4 stitches in 1", so if my pillow was 22" around, I would have to cast on 88 stitches to cover that pillow. This isn't a proper pattern, just some quick and dirty math to get the knitted pillow you want.
You'll might have to keep an eye on a pillow like that to make sure it doesn’t migrate to a friend’s home. It would be a great idea for covering old pillows that are faded or stained. Furthermore, it works up so quickly, you can make several to give to your girlfriends for the upcoming holiday season. Knit it up in their favorite color or in the color to match up with their decor.
The stitches can be seen between my finger and the ruler, that is one row of four stitches.
Knitting a scarf with Sashay Fringe isn't the only thing. With the many patterns out there for ruffle yarn, there's no end to the accessories you can make, as there are several benefits of knitting with Sashay Fringe yarn. All those patterns will be brand new again when knit with Sashay Fringe. The little edge of fur brings a totally different look to your favorite patterns. Give it a whirl!
Welcome back to day four of machine applique with the Husqvarna Viking Sapphire 930. While we've covered three different types of stitching, there are a couple of basic principals of machine applique that I haven't touched on yet. I'll quickly run through those today and then we're going to look at some different stitches that are great applique stitches and provide a totally different look from what we've seen so far. Here are 3 tips for machine applique using non-traditional stitches I like to call, the 'wild card' stitches.
3 basic tips for machine applique
1. Never start stitching in a corner or at a point - start on a straight edge if possible.
2. Use the FIX button to anchor the stitching at the beginning and end of the line of stitching.
3. Stitch the bottom most pieces first (those with the ends tucked underneath another piece) and work your way to the applique shapes that are on top.
Wild Card stitches
If you look at the built-in stitches on the Sapphire 930, you'll find many, many interesting stitches. Who says that they can only be used in a decorative way? Why not try some of them in a functional way and use them for applique? Yep - there are guidelines, but they are just guidelines!
Some of the built-in stitches in the four stitch menus on the Sapphire 930
Below are some samples of how other non-traditional stitches were used for applique.
The first one is similiar to the blanket stitch, but it has a jog in both directions. In this case, the middle of the stitch follows the edge of the applique and you get a very organic feel to the center of this flower.
Decorative stitch used for applique
Remember that some stitches may be more difficult to use for applique especially if there are corners and points to deal with. Depending on the shape, sometimes it doesn't really make that much of a difference if the point isn't perfect. This type of stitch below would be very difficult to turn the corner.
So I started at one end of the leaf shape and I stitched to the end. I used the FIX button to secure the line of stitching at both ends.
Then I returned to the same starting point as the original line of stitching and stitched a second line down the other side, again using the FIX button to secure both lines of stitching.
Now the "spikes" of the applique are going in the same direction down both sides. If I would've pivoted at the point, the spikes would be going in the opposite direction down the second side.
The "spikes" of the applique are going in the same direction down both sides
The thing to keep in mind is how complicated the stitch sequence is. The more complicated, the harder it'll be to get around corners and into points. It can be done - it'll just be harder.
Also, when using decorative stitches for applique, you'll more than likely have to use the mirror function end to end and/or side to side functions. Since these are built into the Sapphire 930, there is no issue with what stitch to choose.
These next two examples are different types of satin stitch - you can really have fun with some of these 'wild cards stitches' and I'm only scratching the tip of the ice berg with these few samples.
This is where you need to get some fabric, set aside some time and let loose!
An uneven edge on both edges satin stitch
An uneven edge on one side satin stitch
I could go on and on with the various other stitches that can be used for applique. But I'm not going to. I want you to do some stitch-outs. Send me samples - get creative. How did you use the stitches? Did you combine stitches to get an interesting look?
Although there are 3 tips for machine applique using non-traditional stitches, the possibilities are endless!
With Halloween coming up, I thought a knitted hat with a beard would be an excellent pattern to both protect you from the elements and add to a costume. This is a hat, just like the pattern provided last month, with a beard attachment. I say attachment, because it's removable.
A knitted hat with a beard is a perfect addition to a Halloween costume. Be a lumberjack? An elf?
materials 1 Hat 1 ball of Red Heart’s Boutique Fur yarn in color Smoke 1 set of needles US 15 [10mm] 1 tapestry needle
Cast on 4 stitches, follow the two rows below until your beard reaches approximately 8" in width. This measurement may be different if you're knitting this for a man, woman or child. To find the measurement for your particular garment, measure from one side of the jaw (just underneath the ear) around the chin to the other side.
Row 1: Knit all stitches Row 2: K1, kfb, k to the last two stitches, kfb, k1
The mouth opening
To make an opening for the mouth, bind off the middle 6 stitches. If your beard is 12 stitches, you'll k3, bo5, k3. When you turn your work the other way, cast on those same stitches using the backwards loop method. Knit one row plain and bind off. Leave a tail of yarn to loop back into the beard to slip around buttons on the inside of hat. You can weave the end in with your fingers and tie the end into the beard itself. There's enough texture with this yarn that small knots like this will secure your ends and go unnoticed in the body of your work. Cut a 5" length of yarn and make a loop for the other side and wear with pride!
Use large buttons and sew them on opposite sides of the inside of the hat.
The beautiful part of this pattern is the ability to detach the beard. While this is fantastic for cold weather and keeps chilly air off your face, there may be occasions where you want to wear the hat without its hairy counterpart. You can also make any adjustments you choose, such as a longer beard, adding in a braided plait, some longer strands for an impressive mustache. The possibilities are endless!
Although this knitted hat with a beard is a great idea for Halloween, it can also be knit up in white for the Christmas season and created for Santa's beard. So easy and so fast to knit up! Join me tomorrow for more knitting fun.
Welcome to the third day of our exploration of machine applique. I love machine applique. And when you have a wonderful sewing machine like the Husqvarna Viking Sapphire 930 to work with - well that makes the applique process that much more exciting. I'm so excited about sharing 11 tips for blanket stitch applique with you today.
Personally I like to call it buttonhole applique, but I tend to confuse people when I say that. Essentially they're the same stitch - however the buttonhole stitch is much denser (stitches much closer together like when you're making a buttonhole) than the blanket stitch. For today's purposes, we're calling it the blanket stitch.
Husqvarna Viking Sapphire 930
Number 1 - set up the sewing machine
If you've been following QUILTsocial this week, you know the routine for setting up the sewing machine. Get that extension table on, use the general purpose needle plate, attach the open toe applique foot and we're ready to start stitching.
Number 2 - choose a style of blanket stitch
The Sapphire 930 has three different styles of blanket stitch. This is so exciting. When I teach classes on machine applique, this is the one area where I find many other sewing machines fall short. Many do not even have one blanket stitch.
The flexibility of three different styles means that I'm certain to find something that's going to serve my purpose. And let's not forget that I can change the width and the length of all the stitches to further expand the possibilities.
One thing that's very important when you're stitching the blanket stitch is to appreciate the stitch sequence. In order to go around corners and points, you must know what the stitch sequence is or you're going to have funny looking stitches. I've made a video clip of each of the three stitch sequences on the Sapphire 930 so you can better appreciate the difference between them.
In this first sample, there are two stitches between each jog. So when I increase the stitch length, I'm increasing the length of those two stitches.
In the photo below, the top line of stitching is the default setting and the stitch length has been increased in the bottom one. Notice the two stitches between the jogs.
In this next sample, you can see the blanket stitch is quite heavy. That's because everything is double stitched. This works if you want that blanket stitch to be very pronounced. This stitch takes more thread and longer to stitch and because of the double stitching, you absolutely must monitor the stitch sequence when turning corners.
The top line of stitching is the default setting and in the bottom sample, the stitch length has been lengthened.
This last sample is a very basic, but probably the most used sequence for blanket stitch. There's one stitch between the jogs and no double stitching. It's easy to turn corners and go around points with this sequence.
In the photo below, the top line of stitching is at the default settings and in the bottom row, the stitch length was lengthened.
Blanket stitch with one stitch between jogs, no double stitching
Although I love the double stitched blanket stitch, my preference is the basic stitch. It's easy to work around corners and points, easy to remember the stitch sequence and I can always use a thicker thread if I want a more pronounced look.
But try them all - it's good to actually see the stitch-outs of each so you can appreciate the difference.
Number 3 - that slant stitch is NOT an applique stitch
I have a confession to make. For many years, I wondered why sewing machine companies put a slant blanket stitch on the sewing machine. I mean really - how are you going to turn the corners and make nice stitching when it's on a slant?
AHA - I've since learned that this is not an applique stitch. Nope - it's an overcast stitch. On the Sapphire 930, stitch number 7 is the Overcast Stitch and stitch number 8 is the Stretch Seam Overcast Stitch.
See - there's always something new to learn! I must have missed that in Home Ec!
Stitch number 7 and 8 are overcast stitches, NOT blanket stitches
Number 4 - choose a thread color
Choosing a thread color is a very personal decision. The look is totally different as you can see from the two samples below. The first one has matching thread for a bright cheery look and the second sample uses the sample color for all the applique pieces. That provides a more primitive, country look.
This is where a bit of investigation pays off. Take pictures at quilt shows, surf the internet. What do you like and what do you dislike? What's the overall look and feel that you want to achieve with this quilt? What style is the quilt?
The more exploring you do, the easier it'll become for you to figure out what you want. Sometimes it's easier to start with just one color of thread. That choice certainly helps with the pocket book as you only have to purchase one spool of thread. If you decide to go with a dark color for all the stitching, I wouldn't choose black. Black is very stark - try a deep brown instead. The look will be much warmer. Again - guidelines are just that - guidelines.
The other thing to keep in mind when you're taking pictures and checking out what you like and dislike - write down why you like something and why you don't like something. It's not enough to say "I don't like that". Figure out why - that is very useful information.
Blanket stitch with matching thread color
Notice how the blanket stitch, like the zig zag and the satin stitch, lies mostly on the applique shape. Only the right most part lies completely on the background. This ensures that the edge is secure and prevents a ridge from forming along the edge.
Blanket stitch with black thread
Another thing to consider when choosing your thread color is your thread stash. If you have loads of different colors, then use them. But if you have to start buying, then try to get one of each color in your project and use the same green for all your leaves/stems. One red for all the reds and so on. With each subsequent project, add another shade or two of those colors until you get the variety that you want. Sometime buying thread in a prepackaged bundle is more economical than buying individual spools.
Number 5 - choose your needle and thread
The options for thread are varied with the blanket stitch. If you're looking for a primitive look, then go for a thicker non-shiny thread. If you want a bit of shine, use the 40 weight embroidery thread and if you just want ordinary stitching, then go for a 50 weight thread that you would piece with. Don't want the stitches to show at all? Try invisible thread.
I can't say it enough - try the various thread weights and types and see what look you want for your piece. What inventory do you have of the thread you want to use? Do several stitch-outs with the three different blanket stitch options - which one do you prefer for this project?
Once you have your thread picked out, then choose an appropriate needle. Again, I always reach for a Microtex as my first option. If I'm using thicker threads, I'll use a Topstitch needle. And don't forget to choose the needle size that's appropriate for your thread. In most cases unless you're using a very heavy thread, you should be fine with an 80/12 needle. If you end up using invisible thread, go for the smallest needle you can thread - I like the 60/8 size.
What thread to use in the bobbin? Regular piecing thread should be just fine. If you're using invisible thread, you might want to put a bobbin weight thread in the bobbin.
Various types of thread that can be used for the blanket stitch
Number 6 - turning corners and points
Turning corners can be a bit tricky with the blanket stitch. Knowing the stitch sequence is critical to the success of the corner or point. You never want to pivot around a corner when the stitch sequence is not complete. This will result in a lop sided stitch.
As you approach the corner and you see that your stitch length is going to take you past the corner or not quite reach the corner, simply raise the presser foot and shift your work forward or backward so the needle will come down right at the corner. Then you decide whether you're going to pivot 45 degrees or a full 90 degrees into that corner.
In the sample below, the corner on the left was done with two 45 degree pivots and the corner on the right was done with one 90 degree pivot.
Two different styles of corner pivot for the blanket stitch
Turning the corner at a point, requires two pivots of whatever angle is appropriate for the sharpness of the point.
This does take a bit of practice, but do one or two and you'll get the hang of it. Notice I didn't even use any applique shape for my stitch outs. Just practice turning the corners and the points on a piece of fabric. When you understand the stitch sequence, then try it on a practice applique shape. When you've mastered that, you're ready to try the stitch on your project.
A nicely turned point with blanket stitch
Number 7 - width of stitches
I haven't really touched on how wide of a stitch to choose for any of the applique methods. The guideline is to keep the stitch width somewhat in perspective to the size of the applique piece. So if you have a large shape, you can use a wider stitch. If the shape is fairly small, use a narrower stitch. That applies to ANY of the applique stitches.
The wider the stitch, the harder it is to manoeuvre around corners and points. Don't be afraid to vary the width of the stitch on the same project. If the leaves are big and the flower petals are smaller in scale, then use a wider stitch on the leaves and a narrower width on the petals.
And don't be afraid to mix the type of applique stitches on the same piece. You want to use blanket stitch on one section and satin stitch on another? Go ahead.
Thankfully, there are no rules and no quilt police.
Number 8 - type of applique
So where would I use the blanket stitch versus the satin stitch or the zig zag stitch? Well that's the beauty of the blanket stitch - it can be used in many situations. If you want to finish off the edges of your fusible applique - blanket stitch works like a charm and provides a very nice sturdy edge. If you want to do invisible applique with it - that works also.
Number 9 - use blanket stitch for invisible applique
Here's a sample of the blanket stitch used for invisible applique. I find using the blanket stitch is a bit trickier than the zig zag for invisible applique. You need to be conscious of the stitch sequence when using the blanket stitch, while the sequence of the zig zag is pretty simple. So if my applique pieces were pretty basic, then I could easily go with the blanket stitch. If there are a lot of points and curves, then I might consider the zig zag as it is more forgiving.
The blanket stitch - one side is invisible, the other side was done with white thread to show the placement of the blanket stitch
Number 10 - mirror, mirror
The zig zag stitch and the satin stitch are symmetrical. Both sides of the stitches are the same. However the blanket stitch is an asymmetrical stitch. The most common way the stitch is used is for the long part to run parallel to the edge of the applique with the jogs sitting on the applique shape. In some instances, it's necessary to have that line go in the opposite direction.
No problem with the Sapphire 930. Choose the stitch and the other appropriate settings. Then hit the Mirror function on the Touch-panel and the stitch is now mirrored. You can mirror end to end or side to side.
Blanket stitch in default position
Blanket stitch in a mirrored position (side to side)
Number 11 - use blanket stitch to machine stitch a binding on a quilt
As much as I dislike bindings sewn on by sewing machine, (yes - I'm a traditionalist at heart) machine sewing bindings is becoming the norm as we attempt to get things done quickly.
I've been learning the grand art of sewing bindings down by machine. The first ones were hideous. But I have to say that I'm becoming proficient at it. The trick I learned is thread color! I'll be putting together a tutorial for you to share my findings.
Essentially, you sew the binding to the back of the quilt and then fold it over to the front. Then using a blanket stitch - you applique that binding in place. This is one instance where I needed to use the mirror function in order for the blanket stitch to fall in the right place along the edge of the binding.
Check out the quilt below - the biggest issue is getting the stitches even on the back all the way around. I'm working on that skill.
Blanket stitch used to stitch down a binding (the front)
Blanket stitch on the back of the quilt binding
Wow - wasn't that exciting! There are so many options for applique on the Husqvarna Viking Sapphire 930 that - well what am I still doing sitting at the computer? I need to be stitching!
Tomorrow, I'll provide some general tips for all types of machine applique and we'll look at some wild card stitches. In the meantime, try these 11 tips for blanket stitch applique, and let me know how you did. Ciao!
Last month, during the yarn review of Red Heart’s Boutique yarns Twilight and Infinity, I touched upon not using very colorful yarn for a project with an intense stitch pattern. This is a small part of a much larger iceberg that doesn’t get as much attention as it should.
Red Heart, Sashay Fringe, Fur, Boutique, Yarn
You always want to coordinate your yarn and projects. I'll tell you right now, I find it much easier to pair a yarn to a project rather than the other way around. There are hundreds of thousands of patterns and you could spend days on Ravelry seeking the right pattern. Whereas yarn is usually something we touch and go, ‘ohhh, no, I must have this’. At that point we panic and try to think what we would use it for, how much should we get, what's the budget for this project?
If you use the queue or library of your Ravelry page then you’re halfway there. You can save the patterns you like in here and when the opportunity of yarn comes up, just check the gauge and yardage for that project; simple, easy, no panic involved. If you’re going in the other direction and just buy a sweater’s worth of yarn every time, you need to search for the perfect pattern, you might have way too much, not enough, this yarn might be best suited for making a hat, but now you have 1000m in your stash.
I feel that I have now terrified most people into using these tools and being extremely organized with their yarn shopping from now on; sorry for the horror stories, but it IS October.
Red Heart Yarn, picking the right yarn for the right project
Now! For unsolicited advice about actually picking your yarn. Keep in mind what I said about busy yarn color and busy stitch patterns. It’s like wearing a patterned shirt and patterned pants. It’s possible, but never looks as good as you think it will. There's another factor in there, which is more particularly inline with this week's yarn: texture.
The two yarns I'm playing with this week are furry, but there are a number of other factors that give a yarn texture. Mohair and baby yarns can be textured because they're so fluffy, Red Heart’s Scrubby yarn is textured. A good way to tell if a yarn is textured would be to knit a swatch and see if you can clearly define stitches.
Red Heart's Boutique Sashay Fringe yarn is very textured
If you remember the swatch I posted yesterday, there's no way you would be able to make heads or tails out of a stitch pattern on that swatch. You might be able to do something that was really REALLY big, like a cable that was 18 or 20 stitches in total, but that seems like we're going a bit nuclear. The cabled cowl posted on Monday has a lot of texture in itself; therefore it will be suited for a very plain yarn; solid, one color, regular spun construction.
Do you see how raised the cables are using Red Heart with Love yarn?
Let’s talk about where you can use all the texture you want. Edges! The Boutique Sashay Fringe in particular would be excellent for edges. If you want to make fancy cuffs for your jacket, the edge around a triangular shawl, a ruffle for a throw pillow this works well. With Sashay Fringe you could even do something like make an entire throw pillow. The fur is soft enough that you would be able to get away with it AND it would ruffle causing a plain stockinette throw pillow to look much more complicated than it actually was to knit.
Red Heart Boutique Sashay Fringe yarn would make a perfect edging to a pillow, or ruffles to a shawl.
Throws are a place where you are able to use more than one texture. There are blanket patterns out there that call for several different types of yarn including a few that have a fuzzy texture. This is a design element within the pattern and usually add a bit of pizazz in an otherwise plain blanket. If used in a consistent manner, you could easily integrate a textured yarn into a log cabin throw or a striped pattern. It would have to be repeated in a pattern so it doesn’t look out of place. If you’re doing a striped pattern, make every other, or every 4th stripe a texture. Then you’re saving yourself from the heartbreak of a 'looks-like-you-ran-out-of-the-right-yarn-so-just-threw-something-random-in' effect.
Red Heart Boutique Fur yarn is so easy to love.
With these points in mind I hope pairing your yarns and patterns together goes a little easier. It has the feel of giving advice when pairing a fine wine to a dish at a restaurant, there are some rules, but it’s about your personal palate. Once you know the rules, you can also experiment with when it's okay to break them.
First thing I'm giving you on a Monday morning is the pattern for a cabled cowl! A pattern so complicated should be left till later in the week when we’re all awake right? No way! This creative cabled cowl is too beautiful to keep to myself. The classic 18", three-button cowl is the easiest cable cowl you'll ever memorize.
The texture of Red Heart's 'With Love' yarn lends itself perfectly to the Creative Cabled Cowl
materials 1 ball of Red Heart’s With Love in color Iris 1 needle US 9 [5.5mm] 1 tapestry needle
Cast on 36 stitches and work in a K1P1 seed stitch for an inch ending on a wrong side row. Continue in seed stitch for 4 stitches, place marker, knit row one of the chart below, place marker and finish last four stitches in seed stitch. Continue starting with 4 stitches in seed stitch then work the next pattern row.
I would suggest knitting until the cowl is 18" in length to give you a nice snug fit to keep you warm on a cold winter day. If you prefer a looser fitting cowl, do as many repeats as you feel comfortable with. When you’re ready to do the buttonholes, stop the chart after row 8 and re-establish your seed stitch. Knit half an inch in seed stitch then place your buttonholes accordingly.
Row 1: Knit 4 stitch in seed stitch pattern, then bind off three stitches, knit 10 more stitches in seed stitch and bind off three, knit 9 stitches in seed stitch pattern, bind off three and finish last four stitches in seed stitch.
Row 2: Continue in seed stitch pattern until you reach the bound off areas and cast on two stitches using the backwards loop method.
Work in seed stitch for another half inch and bind off. You have to watch yourself and make sure you re-establish the seed stitch after the buttonholes properly or your seed stitch will turn into a rib stitch.
Now all you have left to do is sew on your buttons! This cowl perfectly covers the space your jacket leaves open to the unforgiving winter winds. We all have a friend who is always cold, keep them warm with this beautiful creative cabled cowl.
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